Georgetown: the perfect fusion between vintage and modern
One of the reasons why we love Georgetown, the capital of Penang’s island, is because of its very special and unique vibe, that like in no other cities gives you the exciting chance to experience the vintage and the modern at the same time and in the same place. In fact, while wandering the streets of the UNESCO heritage zone, we got impressed by the distinctive architecture reflecting a fusion of Chinese, Indian, Islamic and British elements, and we got even more fascinated to see how those magnificent vintage buildings can cohabit with a great collection of modern street art.
In 2012, the Lithuanian artist Ernest Zacharevich was commissioned to paint “Mirrors of Georgetown” in conjunction with the Georgetown Festival celebrations. Since then, both the artist and the city have gained fame and glory, so has the annual Georgetown Festival, which has been recently described by the International New York’s Time as “growing into a major Asian art events
Certainly, the main interest in Zacharevich’s outdoor art is the interaction between murals and the urban landscape. As a result, he always pays a special attention to the cultural relevance of his compositions. Beside Zacharevich, different other artists have contributed to reshape the streetscape of Georgetown. By clicking here you can take a better look at the street art map of the city.
Curiously, the principles of the fusion of modern and vintage elements can also be noticed in many other areas and fields. In fact, it’s not rare to see antique restaurants and ultra modern bars in the same neighbourhood or traditional shops next to very trendy ones. A clear example is the men barber shop SON and DAD in 53A Lebuh Acheh street, where Elyas Bin Yunoos has successfully launched the trendiest old school and vintage barber shop in Georgetown, inspiring to the Dutch Schorem Barbers’ concept: the classic cuts that have proven themselves over the decades. If you are in the area and need a haircut, why not here?
What makes him unique is his ability to use clippers to cut as close as a razor and he also uses straight razors, which are not normally used by ordinary hair salons. He got very popular in such a short time, that he needed extra help soon. As a matter of fact, he trained a young and talented Fazil and his cousin Fazal, who work with him every day.
Elyas’ dream is to open a branch of SON and DAD barber shops in every state of Malaysia and considering the popularity he has already conquered, we have no doubts that he will reach his goal soon.
Another great example of the fusion of vintage and modern concepts is the Rainforest bakery in Chulia Street. Probably, this is the most trendy shop in the area, with a special attention to healthy and organic breads and pastries, all prepared with love and according to the traditional recipes. Surely, we are sweet breakfast treats lovers, and if they can be accompanied by a good morning cup of coffee, we cannot ask for anything more to start the day!
At the very end of the same Chulia street, close to the Penang ferry terminal, another very peculiar area and part of the Heritage trail is formed by the Clan Jetties, the water villages over a century old, home of several Chinese clans and where we could also find a vibrant combination of vintage and modern in the same place.
They represent the perfect example of a traditional lifestyle within an urban environment, and even though the local authorities consider them as an urban slum and threat to demolish them, the conservationists have fought to have them preserved, and they finally obtained to include them as part of Georgetown’s heritage legacy.
Getting lost in Georgetown was definitely an exciting way to discover the city and its unique corners, however, if you are short in time and prefer to plan everything in advance, you may check by clicking here all the events going on in the city and organize your agenda prior your arrival
How we got to Georgetown
Food
A cheap and good quality option, with abundant dishes is KAPITAN RESTAURANT, 93 Lebuh Chulia street. It is very cheap, but make sure that you know what to order and that you know how to pronounce what you would like to eat, because the waiters there do not speak any English. In another post we fully explain how you can easily order food in Malaysia, avoiding misunderstandings. Our favourites: naan garlic (a bread similar to Italian piadina) and Fried Rice in all its variants.
Drinking
LOVE LANE is very lively at night and most of the bars offer live bands performances and special deals on drinks and cocktails.
REGGAE CLUB is in Chulia Street, just steps off Love Lane street. This is a nice spot to drink cheap beers and meet fellow travellers, while listening to music. Most of the foreigners we met here were expats living in Thailand and visiting Penang to obtain a new tourist visa. Another meeting point of foreigners waiting for a Thai visa is a curious bar, well, actually we are not completely sure it’s a bar or a shop. The name is very difficult to pronounce: Antarabangsa Enterprise. However, every evening the owners place some chairs and tables just in front of this establishment at 21 Lorong Stewart, and it gets crowded very fast, maybe because here you can find the cheapest beers in town.
REGGAE MANSION is at 381 of Chulia Street and it is a very nice building where you can have a beer, a whole meal or you may just want to listen to some music (not necessarily reggae music). It’s a bit pricey, but the venue is absolutely the best in the area, and they offer plenty of happy hours. Good news for ladies: free drinks every night from 6 pm to 10 pm to start the night and then the place turns into a nightclub, with live music performances.
What else to do
FORT CORNWALLS, the largest standing fort in Malaysia, built in 1786;
KEK LOK SI TEMPLE, one of the largest Buddhist temples in Southeast Asia, home to an 87,2 m high Goddess Kuan Yin statue;
KHOO KONGSI, a unique Chinese clan-house with intricate carvings and a rich history.
In addition, at a short bus ride from the city, you may find:
THE BOTANICAL GARDEN, a public park with waterfalls nearby (bus 10 from the centre);
BATU FERRINGHI: a beach with a lot of restaurants and a night market (bus 110 from the Jetty port).
Accommodation and visa to Thailand
Most of the budget establishments are located in Lebuh Chulia/ Love Lane/ Muntri area. They offer dorms, private rooms from 50MYR with shared bathroom and from 60MYR with en suite bathroom. The majority do also sell bus, train and ferry tickets to the rest of Malaysia and to Thailand, and they can help you to obtain the Thai tourist visa.
Our Thai visa guru in Penang is Jim’s Place, a small cafe/travel agency where you can leave your passport in the morning and for a small honest extra charge for their service, you may pick it up the next day at 1.30 pm at the same place, without even going to the embassy. Jim is a very professional agent, and he’s always very helpful with all the information one might need. In addition, buying our bus tickets to Thailand here also turned out to be cheaper than in other agencies or guesthouses.
Where to go next
BY TRAIN:
Butterworth is the nearest train station and it is connected to Georgetown by a bridge and by a ferry service (from 5am to 11pm, it takes 20 minutes). If you are going north, to Thailand, train number 36 leaves Butterworth at 2pm and arrives in Hat Yai at 6:30pm, while if you are travelling south, to Kuala Lumpur, there are five daily trains that connect Butterworth with Kuala Lumpur Sentral.
BY FERRY:
From Swettenham Pier there are two daily ferries to Palau Langkawi (2 hours journey) and two to Medan, Indonesia (4 hours journey).
BY BUS: south of Georgetown there is the long distance bus terminal Sungei Nibong, that can be reached by minibus number 25 from Komtar bus station, but the majority of the long distance buses leave from Butterworth. Tickets may be purchased in most of the guesthouses/hotels or in the travel agencies along Chulia street.
BY PLANE:
Penang is a hot spot to catch budget flights, and we find that flying from Kuala Lumpur to the island is even cheaper than the train and it only takes about 50 minutes. Our favourite airline to cover this route is Malindo Air, because of its excellent relationship quality/price.
What are you waiting for? Fasten your seatbelts and live your own adventure in exciting Georgetown!
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